Ground rules for your garden

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7 • POSTED ON March 19, 2005
Ground rules for your garden
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In this week's gardening column, Rene Trim tells us about the most important ingredient in your garden: soil.

If gardening books were anything like cooking books, on each page it would read "start off with good soil”. At the risk of repeating myself: good soil is, without a shred of doubt, THE most important ingredient to a beautiful, healthy garden. In fact, it is essential to get to know your garden's soil before even thinking of planting, as it - literally - is the foundation on which to build either a glorious garden or a yard full of struggling plants.

The question is: how DO you get to know soil? Unfortunately, there is no such thing as a “Soil Online Dating Questionnaire”; you will have to get out there and get your fingernails dirty.

When you look at your garden, all you see is topsoil. This upper layer of soil is usually the most fertile, being dark in colour and quite crumbly. New homeowners know this as the soil the builders have put on top of the lot to make your garden look more attractive. If your garden is an established one, this nice top layer is either the result of several years of mulching and composting, or simply the offspring of years of decomposed leaves and plants. Dark topsoil is a sign of richness; it is full of nutrients and able to retain moisture - a true plant heaven.

The layer below the topsoil is referred to as subsoil - usually less fertile and of poorer structure than topsoil. Because of its low fertility, subsoil looks paler than topsoil. In most cases, you will find that your subsoil consists of either sand or of clay.

Let"s have a look at the differences between clay and sand. The good things about clay are that it retains water well - often too well – and that it is rich in nutrients. However, it is also often hard and compacted, which makes it difficult to work. It is impossible for plants to thrive in waterlogged clay and very often, you will see plants exposed to these conditions suffer from root disease, resulting in poor growth and susceptibility to disease and insect damage.

Simply put, when you stick your spade in wet clay, you will hear a distinct “slurping sound” and you will find your spade stuck in the soil. By the same token, attempt to stick your spade in dried-out clay and you will find that both its handle and your back break!

Sandy soil is the total opposite to clay soil. It is very easy to work - both under wet and dry conditions - but that does not necessarily make it a great ally to gardeners. It does not hold water or nutrients well. In fact, it drains so quickly that neither water nor nutrients can be absorbed by your plants.

A 100% sandy soil is about as rare as a 100% clay soil and normally, your garden’s soil will consist of a mix of sand, clay and loam. For those of you who do not know what loam is; loam is soil that has the perfect texture. Loamy soil molds into your hand but crumbles when you squeeze it (some even say it smells sweet, but I will leave that to your own judgment). Just remember this: the “loamier” your soil, the happier your plants will be.

Improving your soil – whether it predominantly consists of sand or clay – has to be done by adding organic matter. Compost, well-rotted manure (not that there are many people in downtown Ottawa who have easy access to well-rotted manure), grass clippings, shredded leaves and bark are great for improving the structure of the soil. When added every year, they will greatly improve the long-term fertility of your garden and reward you with healthier, more beautiful flowers and vegetables. Peat moss works just as well, but I have a problem with using natural resources if there are recyclable alternatives handy. Peat moss producers will tell you that there is no shortage of peat lands in Canada and that peat moss accumulates at more than 70 times it is harvested. I am sure they are correct but nonetheless, why spend money on a product that affects our environment – even if only temporarily – if you can get a less detrimental alternative? Instead of spending 40 bucks on six bags of peat moss, why not get a compost bin and put your kitchen waste to work for you?

Contrary to popular belief, improving your soil has nothing to do with adding chemical fertilizers. All they do is add a jolt of nutrients to the soil that will be washed out by rainwater or – in the absence thereof – will burn your plants or lawn. The key to improving your garden soil is organic matter; compost, manure, mulch, leaves, grass clippings. Get any organic “green” matter (not meat scraps/fatty waste), fork it in and let Mother Nature do the rest. In doing so, you will not only drastically improve the condition of your garden’s soil, but you will also create an inviting “restaurant” for worms, beneficial insects, bacteria and other tiny creatures that are together commonly referred to as “soil life”. The richer your topsoil and subsoil are, the better your plants will be able to cope with weather conditions, pests and diseases.

Next week, we will take a closer look at what it takes to successfully produce your own compost.

Until then, happy gardening!

René Trim

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About René
René Trim was educated and trained in The Netherlands, before moving to Canada in 2000. After studying the differences in climate and season faced by Ontario gardeners he established Trim Garden Design and Rescue in May 2002. A gardener since the 1980’s, he has a wealth of knowledge and experience, a vast library of reference materials from which to draw answers to various garden situations as well as an enthusiastic and professional staff.